Prepare the figs

1. Sort through the figs and discard any fruit showing mold, fermentation or extensive damage.

2. Rinse the figs briefly under cool running water. Avoid soaking them, as they can absorb unnecessary moisture.

3. Pat the fruit dry with a clean kitchen towel, then remove the firm stems.

4. Cut small figs in half and larger figs into quarters. Keeping the pieces fairly large will give the finished jam a chunkier texture.

5. Leave thin fig skins in place. If green or white figs have unusually thick skins, remove only the toughest sections.

Macerate overnight

6. Transfer the prepared figs to a large glass or stainless-steel bowl.

7. Sprinkle the sugar evenly over the fruit, then pour in the water.

8. Fold everything together gently, taking care not to crush the figs.

9. Cover the bowl and refrigerate for approximately 12 hours. During this time, the sugar will dissolve and draw a fragrant syrup from the fruit.

Cook the fig jam

10. The following day, transfer the figs and every drop of their macerating liquid to a wide, heavy-bottomed saucepan.

11. Add the lemon juice, star anise, cinnamon stick and optional butter.

12. Place the saucepan over medium heat. Warm the mixture gradually, stirring occasionally, until the syrup begins to simmer.

13. Once it reaches a steady simmer, reduce the heat slightly. The jam should bubble regularly without boiling so vigorously that it splashes.

14. Cook for 25 to 30 minutes. Stir occasionally during the first half of cooking and increasingly often as the syrup thickens.

15. Skim off any foam that collects on the surface. The optional butter will reduce the amount of foam but may not eliminate it completely.

16. For chunky fig preserves, leave most of the fruit intact. For a more spreadable fig jam, press several softened pieces against the side of the saucepan with a wooden spoon.

Check the consistency

17. Place a small spoonful of jam on a plate that has been chilled in the freezer. Wait for 20 to 30 seconds, then tilt the plate.

18. If the jam runs quickly, continue cooking for another 2 to 3 minutes before testing again. It is ready when it moves slowly and wrinkles slightly when pushed with a fingertip.

19. If using a candy or jam thermometer, look for a temperature of approximately 220°F (104–105°C). Remember that the jam will become thicker as it cools.

Fill and store

20. Remove the cinnamon stick and star anise, then ladle the hot jam into clean, heat-safe jars. Wipe the rims carefully and close with clean, undamaged lids.

21. If you are not following a current, tested water-bath canning process, allow the jars to cool and store them in the refrigerator.

22. Label each cooled jar with the preparation date. Always refrigerate after opening and use a clean spoon when serving.